sin electricity

Big house from across the river

Crossing river to reach the estancia, i waited with our bags for the trolley, the river was very very high and i just wasnt into it :)

hi friends, a quick note to say i am back in civilization after 2 plus weeks at the ranch, beautiful amazing river, mountains, people and very rugged harsh conditions with no electricity. had running water, yeah, but cold cold cold, cut wood to start a fire to heat the water to shower, every 3rd day. thats just the beginning. learned a lot and i am plenty full from long horse back rides and cattle drive…. so much.

just arrived back into el huecho today and gathering thoughts for next plans. at the moment i am content to eat meat, drink beer, and drive in a car. apologies for not emailing everyone back personally, internet connection not so good and i am headed back to my home for the night. big hugs, miss you all, more later.

Oso oso and the countdown

dressed and ready for the adventure of a lifetime, my trusty companion Oso Oso

well the day has come and all set for this new adventure. i’ll check in when i can but trust i will be among friends, close to the earth and the stars. in the meantime, tell me about your dreams….

Belated and elated

It’s Novemeber 7th, 2008 I’m sitting in the Neuquen airport restaurant on my computer with the best wifi I’ve had in all of Argentina the past 2 months. I couldn’t be bothered that my plane is 3 hours late, I hear it is quite common. Of course the bed I slept in last night was the best yet as well. I’ve had just 3 hours sleep since Laura and I met a nice man last night and went to have drinks with his friends. Admittedly the worst margarita or mojito I’ve ever had BUT I met 2 locals teaching English. I also learned some very powerful slang last night that I won’t share with you. My Mexican Spanish slang means nothing to them but now I am equipped :0

I’m going to attempt to pick up where I left off weeks ago the day I left Buenos Aires on the overnight bus to Zapala. I’d heard there may be a problem getting into Zapala but I didn’t understand the details. Turns out the farmers strike to get the attention of the government, they want more money for their goods. Well they did and we sat on the bus from 8 am -12 and I slept and read books. I started the process of getting to the bus station around 11:30, figuring it might take an hour or more to actualize that reality, things people etc are slow at best often and on their own time. The very cute bus driver said relax and sunbathe, giving me a visual of how he’d like me to lay, and the serious driver took a walk down to talk to the strikers. They came back eventually and I asked a woman on the bus who teaches English to please translate for me. She does, we drink mate, and I visualize catching the bus and call in a miracle. They send a car to the picket line and we meet him there with my bags. The bus was still sitting there when I left. I felt bad for the woman and her two boys as they were destined for San Martin for some spring skiing but instead were playing cards and watching bad American movies: 10,000 BC

I waited under an hour for the bus to arrive and then sat/paced for an hour in the sun along with the rest of the passengers while it sat idling with the doors shut and locked. Hmmmm

3 bumpy cramped hours later I arrived in El Huecu and by now everyone sitting around me knew where I was going and they said Vamos! Ashely, the patron of the estancia, was waiting with a truck for me, it’s 5:30pm. The rest of the day is a blur. We picked up a hand held plow thing, went to his ex-wife’s house (Ginny) to pick up his daughter, and went grocery shopping. He lives most of the time at his ranch in Colipilli, about 30 minutes by car. He revealed I would be staying the night there along with another volunteer Tish. I was relieved that I was not hopping on a horse right away and riding 3 hours. I had a hot shower, a nice salad for dinner and headed to bed. Something was strange about Ashley and Tish which was revealed the following day. At this point, the soap opera Estancia has begun.

First sushi of buenos aires, happens to be the best as well :)

Front of the bus, its says dont put your feet up here, i confess that in the wee hours of the morn that i may have

Sugar snack upon arriveal on bus

cielos

chasing this amazing sunset, ready for anew adventure

Morning, are we in Santa Fe?

Strike just outside of Zapala

Zapala from the bus, so close yet so far…

Strikers camp on the side of the road, people coming and going, drinking mate…

Colipilli: My bed for the night

and now for the boots

yes these are thee boots i have searched a month for.

Tierra Santa, blood sausage and farewells

What a day I’ve had. Horacio and I explored the city some more and as we drove by the river, I saw what could only be Tierra Santa, I was thrilled. We took a couple of photos of the statues, they were so life like It’s been a delight to spend time with someone who is as easy going and in the flow as me. We ate at a nice restaurant with only locals. I tried blood sausage before deleting it from my diet for all time. It was unsavory to me so Horacio munched it down.

Peeping is punishable

In answer to your question mom, apparently the punishment for peeping is that you are now subjected to NAKED ugly guy. Yes indeed, today he greeted the day with his pants off, well technically they were on but ahem, let’s just say it may be his birthday today.

Today is a lazy day dedicated to packing and getting last minute things, like enough toothpaste to last me a month

I am dining at Horacio’s tonight, he’s making traditional empanadas. His house is quite old and has a lot of character, he’s a painter first and only so maybe you can imagine an artists residence, something out of a movie. He has the biggest collection of bombillas, the straw used to drink mate, and they are stunning. I wouldn’t doubt they are one of a kind, each hand made, mostly silver but some have gold accents. Being a huge fan of antiques this is really cool to me.

Horacio has told me so much about this city he loves so much and I feel I know it a bit better. And the people too. He admits most Argentines are serious and don’t come off as very friendly but on the whole they are really open generous kind people. He’s helped me solve the mystery around the corner and the women who seem to be “working”. The restaurant on the corner is actually where a lot of them sit and have a cigarette and wait, they are actually working. There is a “transitorio” across from our front door and this is where they go for an hour or two. They cannot call it a hotel hence the transitorio name. All the shades on the windows are closed. I notice I get a lot of looks when I pass by there and now I know why.

Construction around the house continues, today with a rythmic banging.

Today is 81 degrees, the warmest yet. Hard to comprehend my loved ones in the states getting ready for winter!

Inside Buenos Aires

Beautiful serene Colonia, Uruguay

Gone to Uruguay for the day and it was fantastic! I arrived at 10:30 to check in and go through customs. We boarded about 11 and set sail around 11:30. There were tons of people, lots of tourists as well as locals onboard and I snoozed a bit, lulled by the rocking. Part of my decision for this trek is to have my visa renewed so that I can stay another 90 days. I don’t know when I’ll come out of the deep Patagonian landscape so better to have my visa with 3 more months on it.

I decided to walk, I had a map of the downtown area is very small. And so glad I did, it was peaceful beyond belief. There were more mopeds and dogs than cars on the road.  Quiet. No hurry. Sunshine. Fresh air. Lots of old buildings in disrepair, some nice restaurants set up seating right on the street.

Lots of photos from the day as there were trees and flowers and nice people! I even had someone stop their car for me when I crossed the street! This has NOT been my reality the last 6 weeks, more like the reality of getting smeared on the road like Frogger. So I found myself relaxed to a place I havent quite seen in awhile…

Going into a nice restaurant that looked as though you were going into someone house, over looking the rio, I saw the prices and thought at first they wanted 275 argentine pesos for a sandwhich! Alas, no. This is Uruguay, hey the have their own money!

I enjoyed a very messy sandwich with a fried egg, a thin slice of carne, jamon, tomatoe, lettuce, mayonaise, oh yes and the very lame excuse for bacon. Oh and a “salad” with shredded carrots, tomatoe, lettuce and onion with olive oil and salt. Darn, I forgot how they make salads here! The sandwich was big, messy and tasty, sure I had covered most of the animals at the top of the food chain with it. The view was superb and lots of couples smooching at the surrounding tables, I studied the map since I only had 3 hours on land before I needed to return to the port.

I paid the bill with Argentine pesos, after she converted it. The change was given some Uruguay and some Argentine, making it impossible for me to know how much I’d gotten back. I tipped her 2 AR pesos, which would have been less than $1 us dollar but a lot in Uruguay. Turns out the US dollar is 21 to 1 UR peso. I learned that when I entered a touristy shop except that it had beautiful amethyst crystals in the window and cool Uruguay stickers.

I did my best with speaking to him in espanol and I learned that he used to live in Atlanta though his English wasnt that good. He explained where the crystals were from, on my map, being the northern regions of Uruguay close to Brasil. They were stunning, the quality was excellent, and for a tiny fraction of what we pay in the states.

I made my purchase after he explained about the conversion. It was getting time to start walking back to the port so I meandered down a quiet street, the trees just glorious. I was just drawn to go into a hotel called “Posada del Angel” and it was so peaceful there. The gal greeted me and told me had no room. I said oh I’m just looking for the future, when I come back. She invited me to have a smoke (everyone smokes here except me in the backyard. Ok. The only being in this marvelous yard with lawn chairs and a sparkley clean pool was a grey cat sleeping in the shade. He had “play with me!” written all over his face. So we cuddled and purred for awhile. His name I learned is Morro. Lovely place, the rates about 65-75 a night, usd.

I was on a roll talking and meeting people, I forgot how friendly and at ease people are. Haha, yes I’ve been in BA long enough. There was some kind of a parade in the streets, kids making a lot of noise, cars following beeping their horns.

Alas I return to the ferry terminal. It is undergoing construction, big time. There is only 1 place to check in and that is for the other ferry company. I approach 4 people speaking good ole straight English, maybe they know. 2 from New York, 2 from Washington DC, we gabbed and swiped advice on visiting various places. It was nice to be with fellow Americans and we talked about how traveling makes one appreciate their country more. And to realize that everyplace has its problems.

We boarded early which was a good thing as for some reason the overhead person says something like “all argentines can go to the front of the line” well yes of course because they are the most important people in the world, tee hee. All was going well with customs until they asked for the boarding stub from this morning. Huh? I’m speechless cause the only thing I can think of to say is “WHY?”, not now Bella. Luckily it was sitting on the bottom of my purse, I handed it over.

The other Americans and me all sat together though apart, only seats per section. A friendly man, who managed to communicate his good sense of humor to me in no time, sat down next to me, giving up 3 seats to a family. We immediately started talking and he spoke very good English. A painter, had been to New York, SF and lived near Tampa for 6 months. He’s been divorced 4 times (He is Latin afterall!!! his words not mine), 3 daughters and 4 grandchildren. Nice sweet person and he’s very interesting. He’s come back from his cottage on the beach in Punta del Este. We talk about the sound healing I do, my espanol (its improving!) and tons of things. We shared some good laughs on that hour ride. Coincidently, he spends Sundays in San Telmo and that is on the agenda for me too! I’ve not had a Sunday in the San Telmo market yet! I learn he has his car on the ferry, this always makes me thrilled, I rode this way once from Vancouver Island) and he offered to give me a ride home. I live really close and don’t mind walking, I tell him that and accept.  It was the perfect ending to the day. I was all smiles as we drove off the ferry and literally into the sunset.

Tomorrow we go to the market. And with my new nice Bohemian Argentine friend, I couldn’t think of a better way to spend my last Sunday here!

Mate has caffeine

Some of you know mate, the typical drink from South America. Its known for its “good caffeine” quality. Most of the people I have shared it with in the states don’t care for it. I admit its somewhat of an acquired taste. I enjoyed some as I was reading “Spark your dream”, the part where they make it to Alaska, after nearly 4 years on the road. This was about 5pm.

I walked over to take a tango class at Alvear 1459 but I went to Arenales instead and sorta got lost. I’ve been going out with the map lately as I’ve enjoyed asking people for help. So I asked a well dressed serious looking man where I might find this address and he kindly and enthusiastically explained it was one street past Santa Fe, the way in which I had just come. I thanked him and he returned to his rather handsome stoicness and retraced my steps. Good news I found the address, bad is there was no one there when I rang the bell!

I was close to the Disco (grocery store not nightclub) and took the long way there. I was in my “old neighborhood” and I decided to find the little store that had sold me the only phone card I can use without fail here. I bought 4 of them. Relieved as my attempts at using Skype have been unreliable and going to a locotoria is not always feasible.

Then I went into a athletic store, on a whim, and found a nice girl who is leaving in Dec to spend 3 months on Maui, as part of her school program. She is thrilled with such an opportunity, she will be getting work experience while there and I commented on her good English. Shy and proud, she answered no, its not very good at all. That is the standard reply to the comment, so I’m not surprised. We had a nice time chatting and the boy who was “too cool to talk to an American” admits that he is waiting to hear if he can study in Miami. Nice kids. I wish I had 2 $20 dollar bills from home to give them each, their first real american money from the states.

Today I had a goal of finding tortillas to make enchiladas from the leftover chicken. About 15 stores later still no. I can’t believe there aren’t any so I continue to look. The Disco didnt have any but it did have the LoNG line it is famous for. Honestly, the checkers are the slowest in the world, its like being on a bad acid trip, not that I’ve had a bad one

On my way home, it’s nearly 9 at this point and dark but I was inspired to sing out loud today. The man who came in to turn on our water yesterday continued to work away and seranade me with a really beautiful song. I love it when men sing like that! Oh and I LOVE when they lean over the counter and embrace their buddy, giving them a kiss on the cheek. The men are affectionate with each other here, genuine hugs and kisses embraced between men holds a special place in my heart. No funny business, nothing to be ashamed of.

So as I walked last night, with my headphones on, I sang out loud to various songs. Something that may not have sounded good to the trained ear but would sound lovely to someone who can hear the freedom and joy in it.

Tortillas, right. I went into another random store that I want to call “Best” for some reason and I found them, small tortillas! I had to take a picture, my goal is accomplished. I cant wait to tell my roommate, its going to be taco Thursday afterall. They are called “Rapiditas” light made by Bimbo. Perfection.

Getting back to how this all started, mate has caffeine. More than tea, less than coffee, per cup. The thing is, I was awake till 3:30 in the morning thanks to this wonderful drink. The good thing is that I dreamed while awake and listened to the sounds of the dark. If I’d been alone I would have played by calimiba, we’re getting along well. Thats another blog post though.

I leave you with “ugly guy” our neighbor sitting on his small balcony, sunning himself sin shirt as he does most days the sun shows itself.

Peeping Bella

Ritual

Bimbo’s rapiditas

Kalimba by Pablo

Made from mate

Best book!

Seriously, this is the best book!

Clarity, confustion and elation, what a wonderful fusion for a new beginning

After much soul searching I haved decided to explore Latin America instead of heading to Europe and beyond. I’m not ready to leave yet.  I’ve called and cancelled my trip and for $150 I get all my miles put back into my account, meaning I can take this trip at a later date. Which is confusing since I’ve already started my travel and now I’ve basically paid $150 for a one way ticket to Buenos Aires. Marvelous. As of midnight tonight the miles are back in my account and I am a bandito in BA.

With that, I feel free to linger here and there slowly meandering up the America’s as I will.

I’ve always had a dream to have a ranch where all kinds of people come and connect to the horses, the land, each other. Its refreshing to recall the dreams of my youth. As I grew up,  I thought it was too simple, there must be something more.  Now I realize it’s enough to just be a moment or a part of someone else’s happiness or dream and all those moments make up a great life.

Tonight we celebrate and go in search of fish and chips, which is a hilarious outing and I struggle to find the spanish, pescado fritas y papas. At “El Salmon” we find it and Ricardo, a very animated man who gets too close when he talks to you but that doesnt bother me as it does KJ. This guy is so happy, clearly elated to meet and serve us with great attention. In the end it wasn’t a great meal but there was something very special about having a goal of finding fish n chips and only about 3 blocks from home!

Lately I’ve been talking a lot about dreams. It started while in Puerto Iguazu where I learned of my aunt’s sudden death and trying several times to reach my mom by phone that night only to get answering machines and then running out of time on my phone card. Given the time of night I had to put off trying again till the morning and it took hours to find a place to call her. After the call I absently window shopped, preoccupied with the conversation with my mother, of the sad news, and the suddeness of her death. She was only 52.

Found a sweet little store in Puerto Iguazu.  A man and his little boy were upstairs and both came down to greet us when we arrived. While I looked at the many handmade local crafts, they played toss the ball and throw the wooden aligator. I was so filled with the energy of this place I had to return, alone.

Once I returned, I played “put the wooden alligator on your head and watch it fall off” with the boy, only about 3. He was sweet, we even enjoyed a short wiggle your bum dance together. Hanging from the ceiling were dreamcatchers and I went from one to another, each one having its own special flavor. I decided on one I didnt notice till the end. It had “sweet dreams” all over it.

I also found a special gift there. While he wrapped each with care, I managed to tell him I like the “energia” of his store and I knew he understood by the huge smile across his face. I think its moments like this that make me want to travel, when the joy is so clear it transcends language space and time.

From that moment things started shifting and I came home to be pulled into a bookstore and straight into a shelf, coming eye level with a book that would change my life.

Tonight I finished the book “Spark your dream”, a true story of an Argentine couple who set out in a 1928 old car to Alaska. With enough money for 6 months they head out leaving friends, a home, good jobs etc and set their sights on this dream. Besides being inspiring and uplifting, its really a love story between 2 people and these same 2 people and millions of people all over the world.

In a way, the book is like a philosophy book that combines spirituality with actual experience great humor big love and absolute respect for dreams. It is touching how they include everyone and treat everyone and everything with gratitude respect and an open heart. So its got me thinking, what dreams have I forgotten or let fall by the wayside?

I’m reminded again of the bittersweetness of finishing a book so enjoyable its hard to put down. And as they finish their dream of getting to Alaska, I start mine. In one week I leave for a place I know will change me forever and become part of my dream.

Honestly, I wish I could buy this book for everyone. It’s that good. Really, buy if from Amazon or where ever you can find it locally. And when you are done, pass it onto the next person and keep it going like that forever…